That the beach of the dead should be so lovely and lively is a small irony, a Sayulita paradox. Down past the hilly graveyard, there’s a small stretch of sand between rocky points, a bit of Sayulita but a bit removed. Here, where the spirits of those nearby dead perhaps have gathered, the swimming is wonderful, for the sea is calm, and off the rocks to the left, the snorkeling is great, with swarming schools of brightly colored fish to admire. The walk through the graveyard is enchanting, for Mexicans love to spend time with their dead, and so they dress their family graves with flowers and finery; and when you get past the finery, you’ll find perhaps the finest beach in town.

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